Siem Reap is renowned for its majestic temples, but for those who seek to uncover the city’s distinctive and authentic essence, there is much more to discover. Siem Reap boasts a flourishing community of artists, artisans, and craftsmen. I’ve been fortunate to witness the evolution of this remarkable design scene since its early beginnings.
Since moving to Siem Reap in 1996, I have had the privilege of being part of the city’s incredible surge in creativity over the past 30 years.
The early days and the pioneers
This artistic renaissance was sparked by the establishment of Chantiers Écoles, a vocational training school my husband co-founded in 1992. Chantiers Écoles was the first to revive traditional Khmer crafts, reintroducing stone carving, wood carving, and later, silk weaving in Puok by 1993. With European Union funding in 1997, these crafts flourished under the influence of artists and designers who initially came on short-term missions but chose to stay. These talented individuals have become the backbone of Siem Reap’s vibrant arts and crafts scene.
Artisans Angkor: A revival of Cambodian craftsmanship
In 2000, the Chantiers Écoles Crafts Department became Artisans d’Angkor, a social enterprise dedicated to preserving traditional Cambodian crafts. Established in the wake of the Khmer Rouge regime, it aims to revive the country’s rich artistic heritage and provide sustainable jobs for local artisans.
Artisans d’Angkor empowers artisans to earn a livelihood while taking pride in their culture, and it stands as a testament to resilience and cultural pride, continuing to inspire with its commitment to tradition. The silk center and the historical crafts center can be visited every day.
Lim Muy Theam
I vividly remember my first encounter with Theam in the narrow alleys of the old market in 1996. Siem Reap was a sleepy, unassuming town with little to offer in the way of modern products. Yet, in one of these alleys, I discovered a collection of canvases with bold, vibrant colours displayed by a Chinese vendor. The striking modernity of these paintings amidst Cambodia’s rustic simplicity kept drawing me back. One day, the vendor casually mentioned “magenta,” a term almost exclusively reserved for fine arts. Intrigued, I slowly pieced together the story behind the artist. The painting, still unfinished and awaiting framing, was the work of Lim Muy Theam, an artist trained at one of Paris’s top design schools who had returned to Cambodia after leaving in the late 1970s. Though Theam returned to France after the 1997 coup, we became friends, and he eventually came back to help develop the design studio for Chantiers Écoles, playing a pivotal role in the growth of Artisans d’Angkor.
In 2010, Theam opened Theams’ Gallery, a must-visit haven in Siem Reap, where his sister, Maddy, warmly welcomes visitors. Theam’s art is a personal favourite, and at Maison Polanka, you can discover his work throughout the property. In the Garden Cottage, there’s a major piece—a 240 cm x 240 cm lacquered wooden panel depicting the bombing of the National Bank of Cambodia in 1975. The Khmer House features an early painting of two men napping, which Theam brought back from France and was on display in the old market in 1996. The Orange Suite showcases a wooden panel of him sleeping in front of the white building, and all the rooms are adorned with his colourful clay elephants.
Eric Raisina
Another unforgettable encounter occurred in 1996 when Eric Raisina visited Siem Reap as a tourist. The region’s red earth reminded him of his native Madagascar, and my husband quickly recognized his talent for textiles and fashion design. Eric soon returned on a mission to create fabrics and design scarves for the National Silk Center in Puok, setting up his first design studio at our home, Maison Polanka.
In 1998, Eric debuted the first fashion collection for Artisans d’Angkor. I still recall the backstage scene: shy silk weavers stepping onto the runway as makeshift models alongside Janet, Cambodia’s first professional model, who had flown in from Phnom Penh. Traveling from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap was no small feat back then—there were no roads connecting the cities, and just one flight a day aboard an old Antonov plane. The contrast between Janet’s poise and the timid local girls we coaxed onto the catwalk remains etched in my memory. Eric Raisina has been living in Siem Reap for over 20 years now, and his “haute texture” boutique in Aviary is a vibrant showcase of his silk creations and men’s and women’s fashion.
Eric Stocker
Eric Stocker, a French master of lacquer, has been a key figure in revitalizing Cambodia’s traditional lacquerware techniques. Arriving in Cambodia in 1998 under the commission of the European Union for the Chantiers Écoles, he set out to train young Cambodians in this nearly forgotten craft. With decades of expertise, Stocker imparted his knowledge to artisans at Artisans d’Angkor. He never left Cambodia and later co-founded Angkor Artwork with his brother Thierry—a venture that eventually transformed into Stocker Studio.
Lacquer, a natural resin harvested from trees, has been integral to Cambodian art and utility since the 12th century. Stocker has been crucial in breathing new life into this ancient practice by blending traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation. His work is distinguished by creative applications of various textures, such as eggshell, straw, and gold leaf, which he meticulously incorporates into his exquisite lacquer creations.
Sirivan
After leaving Cambodia at the age of 12 and studying fashion at Atelier Chardon-Savard in Paris, Sirivan returned to her roots nearly three decades later. Her first visit back to Cambodia was to design a collection of bags for Artisans d’Angkor in 2004. As a French-Cambodian fashion designer, she is known for her unique ability to merge Cambodian heritage with French design sophistication. Her work reflects this blend, integrating traditional Cambodian patterns, textures, and materials with contemporary, minimalist aesthetics. Sirivan’s designs are subtle yet expressive, offering an elegant balance between tradition and modernity.
She established the Sirivan Concept Store in Siem Reap, where her creations, including the innovative Biniky Chic Nomad travel line, are crafted locally but cater to a global audience. The store, a hub of creativity, features men’s and women’s apparel, accessories, and travel essentials designed for stylish adventurers.
Ly Pisith
Pisith first arrived in Siem Reap for a brief mission in jewellery design with Artisans d’Angkor. A year later, he founded Garden of Desire in Kandal Village, which has since become a favourite destination for Cambodian contemporary silver jewellery.
The origins of Garden of Desire trace back nearly five decades to the tumultuous period of the Khmer Rouge, when a young Pisith was separated from his family and forced to flee to Thailand before eventually settling in France. In his 20s, while living in Paris, Pisith found refuge in art, which ultimately led him to his true calling in design. Over the years, he built a successful career as a product designer for prominent international brands such as Alain Mikli and Starck. His innovative designs earned him accolades and recognition, taking him to Singapore, where his work attracted both clients and awards.
What sets Garden of Desire apart is the deeply personal narrative embedded in each piece of jewellery. As the creative force behind the brand, Pisith draws inspiration from his Cambodian heritage, crafting jewellery that reflects both his personal journey and his aspirations for his homeland. His pieces pay homage to Cambodia’s past, present, and future, embodying stories that celebrate its culture while expressing his hopes for its continued growth and renewal.
Romyda Keth at Ambre Siem Reap
The incredibly glamorous Ambre boutique is a fashionista’s heaven and has been my go-to supplier for over 20 years and a wonderful partner in business when I had the Khmer Attitude boutiques at The Raffles Phnom Penh and Siem Reap from 2000 until 2020. Romyda Keth, a highly creative Cambodian designer who spent 20 years in France, designs for women and children, while Thomas Julien handles men’s fashion.
In the Siem Reap shop, Roberta and her team are incredibly talented and will help you find your piece!
The newcomers: my must-go guide and locations for 2024
Siem Reap is a shopping heaven, compact in size and easy to explore by tuk-tuk. Here are the must-visit creative spots scattered along the river. You’ll need at least two half days to fully experience the arts and crafts scene. Here are my favourite places in 6 spots:
Oko Gallery
Located in front of Viroth’s hotel, Oko offers unique pieces and small handcrafted series of artwork and interior design. Oko has crafted lamps and textiles for our Yellow, Green, and Maison Family suites.
Kandal Village:
Louise Loubatières
Louise, a French -Vietnamese by heritage and of British nationality, moved to Cambodia in 2012 to open her lifestyle store, born out of a love for beautiful things, a passion for travel, and a desire to mix the old with the new. Working closely with local artisans, Louise creates a range of homewares and clothing collections that marry contemporary designs with traditional craftsmanship. One of her dresses is actually my uniform at Maison Polanka!
DSK
A leather shop with tens of handmade, incredibly clever accessories. Owned by a friendly Korean couple, it offers excellent design and quality. My favourite bags here are from SMateria.
Soka Diwo
This shop showcases traditional statues in old wood, brass, and stone—a place for tradition!
Manava
Produces fair trade, high-quality willow bags, cuffs, and basketry for home decoration.
At Aviary Hotel Gallery
Alongside another Sirivan outlet and Eric Raisina’s boutique, you’ll find SMateria. I’ve been using their pouches, toiletry bags, handbags, and beach bags for nearly as long as they’ve been around. Mixing recycled material with great Italian design, they last for decades.
At FCC
Satu offers a great selection of made-in-Cambodia products, including liquors, books, postcards, games, accessories, children’s products, and fragrances.
Of course, no visit is complete without exploring Theam’s Gallery and Eric Stocker’s lacquer studio!
Markets
Psar Chas
Psar for food, snacks, sports, and t-shirts (though 80% of the souvenirs are not made in Cambodia).
Psar Leu
Psar Leu for a local experience, including second-hand clothes at the back of the market.
Siem Reap is a city brimming with creativity and culture, and exploring its boutiques and galleries offers a unique glimpse into the soul of Cambodia. Ask for our guide with addresses and opening hours at Maison Polanka.
All these shops and galleries can be found on Instagram.