In 2004, Jean Pierre and I embarked on a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that would forever etch itself in our memory—a helicopter ride through the North of Cambodia, exploring some of the country’s most breathtaking and historically significant sites. We were with dear friends from Germany Michael and Isabelle Girardet and with our neighbour, archaeologist, Christophe Pottier from the EFEO. This extraordinary journey took us from the remote temple of Preah Vihear to the pyramid of Koh Ker, the majestic Kulen Mountains, and finally, to the iconic Angkor temples.
We boarded the helicopter in Siem Reap at 7 am. As the rotor blades began to spin, lifting us off the ground, we were immediately over the Baray. The patchwork of rice fields, dotted with traditional stilted houses, stretched out in all directions, framed by distant mountains and dense forests. The contrast between the lush green of the countryside and the red earth of the roads below was striking.
Preah Vihear: the temple on the edge
Our first stop was the magnificent Preah Vihear temple, perched atop a 525-meter cliff on the Dangrek Mountains, along the Cambodian-Thai border. This 11th-century Hindu temple, dedicated to the god Shiva, is one of the most remote temple in Cambodia. As we approached the cliff, the temple’s grandeur became apparent—the intricate carvings, the steep stairways, and the panoramic views of the surrounding plains made it seem like a temple on the edge of heaven. But Preah Vihear was also a safe place for the Khmers Rouges as they could easily hide in Thailand, 100 meters further North. It was their stronghold where bad things might have happened between 1975-1979.
Landing within the temple compound has been forbidden since, and after Covid, helicopter rides are not operating anymore over Angkor, making that once in-a-life day trip unique. The view from the cliff was breathtaking, offering an unparalleled perspective of the surrounding landscape, a view that few are privileged to see.
Koh Ker: the forgotten city
Our next destination was Koh Ker, an ancient city that served as the capital of the Khmer Empire for a brief period in the 10th century. Unlike the more famous Angkor temples, Koh Ker is relatively isolated, making it today a hidden gem for those seeking to explore Cambodia’s lesser-known historical sites. Koh Ker could not be accessed by the road until 2004.
We landed at Prasat Thom, a 30-meter-high pyramid that dominates the landscape. Climbing to the top of this pyramid revealed a vast expanse of dry jungle, with only the occasional temple spire peeking through the trees.
On the way back to Siem Reap, we flew over the Kulen mountains and could see how much the Jungle had been decimated without witnesses. The Kulen Mountains, a place of great spiritual significance for the Cambodian people, are considered the birthplace of the Khmer Empire, and the area is rich with ancient temples, carvings, and natural wonders that have been put into light with the Lidar. Today, the organisation AFD leaded by Jean Baptiste Chevance is working with communities for local development and at the same time restoring these lost temples.
After the Kulens and Bantey Srey, the plains of Siem Reap district appear, surrounding Phnom Bok, a temple next to Bantey Srei.
Angkor temple at 4 pm…
From the air, the sheer scale of Angkor Wat, the largest religious monument in the world, is breath-taking. The temple’s symmetrical beauty, surrounded by a moat and dense jungle, was a sight to behold. The helicopter could pause or a few minutes for that incredible experience.
Twenty years later, that ride is still in our memory as it was yesterday. Because we were pioneers, because we were with the perfect companions whom I will never thank enough for allowing us to join the trip.
