In February 2004, we embarked on an adventure that would lead us to one of Cambodia’s most enigmatic and lesser-known archaeological sites in those days—Koh Ker. The road was newly opened, making the site accessible to travellers for the first time since 1970. Accompanied by our archaeologist friends, we felt as pioneers exploring this remote site
the road to discovery: a new path to the past
The road to Koh Ker had only recently been cleared and opened, allowing for the first time in decades, easy access to this remote archaeological treasure. The anticipation was palpable as we set out on this freshly paved route, winding through dense forests and rural villages. The landscape was a vibrant tapestry of green, punctuated by the occasional stilt house, with children waving at us as we passed by. The journey itself felt like a step back in time, through a part of Cambodia that had remained relatively unchanged by modernity. We stopped for breakfast in Svay Leu.
The forest was scattered and dry. I still wonder if it was the type of vegetation or the logging. We met very few vehicles, a traditional cart and a motorbike, between Svay leu And Koh Ker.
koh ker: the forgotten capital
Koh Ker was the capital of the Khmer Empire for a brief period during the 10th century under King Jayavarman IV. Unlike Angkor, which is characterized by sprawling temple complexes and iconic monuments, Koh Ker is a scattered collection of over 180 structures spread across the jungle, many of which had been reclaimed by nature over the centuries.
The Prasat Thom, the main temple pyramid, loomed above the trees, a stark and imposing structure that immediately drew us in. This 30-meter-high pyramid, often compared to the Mayan pyramids in Central America, was unlike anything we had seen before in Cambodia. The steep, seven-tiered structure seemed to rise out of the earth, with the jungle threatening to engulf it once more.
The site was virtually deserted, allowing us to explore at our own pace, with only the sounds of the jungle as our companion. The temples, though weathered by time, still retained much of their grandeur.
Each temple we visited told a different story. The smaller shrines, hidden among the trees, gave us a sense of the spiritual life that once flourished here.
Sanctuaries with Shiva-Lingams were already present before Koh Ker rose to prominence as the capital. The majority of the large-scale monuments at Koh Ker were constructed under the direction of Jayavarman IV, with many of them being built even before he claimed the throne of the Angkorian Empire.
The Koh Ker temple complex was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site during the 45th session of the World Heritage Committee, held in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, in September 2023.
For our guests who will saty at least 4 days in Siem Reap, we recommend to extend their visit to this further complex of millennia-old ruins.
